by Ben Long

When I was a kid, grandpa told me I could catch a bird by sprinkling salt on its tail. Since then, I’ve traded in my salt shaker for a good pair of binoculars.

The trouble is, putting yourself in the vicinity of a bird while you have the binoculars in hand is only half the challenge. The second half is finding the bird in the binoculars. The challenge can be particularly maddening when trying to glimpse a tiny warbler flitting through the leafy tree canopy or a flying duck cutting across a distant marsh.

I’m no expert, but here are a couple things to consider if you have trouble finding birds on the wing or in the bush.

One, pick the right glass. The optical concept to understand is field of view

Field of view is the size of the sight window when you look through the binoculars. It’s generally expressed in feet at 1,000 yards, say 350 or 450 feet at 1,000 yards.

Binoculars are described based on two numbers. The first number is magnification. The second is the diameter of the objective (big) lens as measured in millimeters. So, the popular 8×40 binocular has magnification of 8x and an objective lens of 40 millimeters.

This is relevant because field of view depends on both those variables.  When you are shopping for binocs, check the specs. Sometimes it’s abbreviated as “FOV.”

The thing to know is, the more your binoculars magnify, or the smaller the objective lens, the smaller the field of view. An 8×42 binocular would have a FOV around 377 feet, while a 10×42 would likely have a FOV of about 340 feet. A 7×35 binocular, however, would have a FOV of 480 feet.

That makes a difference for “target acquisition.” So, if you are frequently frustrated finding birds, consider binoculars that have (a) less magnification or (b) bigger objective lenses, or both.

Binocular marketing follows trends and 8×40 is the popular choice these days. When I was a kid, everyone carried 7x35s. I also have 10x50s which are OK if you don’t have to lug them around your neck; I use mine in my office or in my truck. Compact binoculars, say 8x20s, are delightful to carry but significantly sacrifice FOV.

Target acquisition is a skill that requires practice. The good news is the practice is fun! Birders who put in plenty of hours scanning the treetops for flighty passerines will get better at it over time. You can practice around your neighborhood, as long as you don’t violate anyone’s privacy.

One trick is to keep your eyes focused on the bird, then move your binoculars to your eyes. That is, don’t break eye contact with the bird by glancing down at the binoculars, then having to re-find it once you lift binoculars into place.

California naturalist John Muir Laws suggests this: when you see a bird, point your nose at it and keep your nose pointed at it as you raise your binoculars to your eyes. I’ve been trying this recently and it really works.

That is, until the bird hops to another treetop. Then you have no choice but to lower the glasses and start over. Don’t drop the binoculars all the way down – rather search for the bird over the top of the binoculars so you can quickly put your optics to work.

Sure, it’s frustrating to have a potential lifer disappear before you can get a closer look. Luckily, that’s all part of the joy of birding. And still easier than the old shaker of salt.